Thursday, 7 June 2012

18th Century Caracco Jacket

This is a little project I have been wanting to get off the ground since last October. So I just got up and got on with the draping of the toile this morning. The historical plate is from Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 1 and it is the 1775 Caracco Jacket. I wanted to drape a Mantua as well but this little jacket ended up taking longer than expected as the two piece pattern was tricky to manipulate on the stand and I had to place it on the flat to extend out the skirts and pleats.

Below are the first photos of this process right up to the completed toile(pinned).
I have just made this to fit the mannequin without padding and I will now convert it to a paper pattern before making up in top fabric (as a sample so no further toile) and then hopefully find someone to fit and model it for me. I'm not sure on fabric choices at the moment as I have recently said I am not buying any more fabric over the Summer and must use up what is in 'the stash' thus saving money and clearing space. Its more about familiarising myself with the draping process and also construction/decoration then expensive silks. When I have clients who want to pay £50 a metre for their fabrics then I can enjoy the full luxury of such a garment, but until then the key word for this summer must be frugal.

First draping:

Laying on the flat to add skirts and pleats:

 Pinned back onto the mannequin before shortening the hem:

Finished toile:

The toile is not quite sitting right at the back as I have not put on a bum roll, I did add a bit of padding but once the correct underwear is in place then the jacket will sit correctly at the back.

So that is it for now, as mentioned the next step is to create a paper pattern from the calico toile and then choose some fabric.

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