Friday, 13 July 2012

Romantic Tutu- Green with Envy

So friends, I have been busy, busy, busy. I keep plugging away at this little beauty because what i really want to get to is the decoration.
There will be lots of delicate tulle flowers, beading and painting as well as applique, not to mention some bling crystal rhinestones.


The bodice is done, bar a few more closures. The skirt is almost nearing completion and I have at this point only the top layer left to cut out and gather; the top layer has 13 panels!

I have used a different material and colour for each layer, firstly to get an idea of how the different fabrics work and also because I want the colour of the skirt to be constantly changing, depending on how much/where and what light it is under. It is my hope that the almost garish glitter tulle at layer 3 still glimmer slightly through the layers.


Here are some photos of the fabrics pre cutting. Its not a bad likeness to the real colours.



There is tulle and a silky chiffon.

So far the layers go from the bottom:

spun sugar colour net(this is lovely and would look fab on its own covering all 40+ panels).

glitter tulle (making a mess everywhere)

apple green chiffon ( a bit bright on its own but boy does if flow lovely, besides it will be tempered by the layers above it)

Teal tulle net ( somehow when i went back to the store i came out with a slightly different net that was not as good as the first lot. Too late now, but you wouldn't notice really)

Liquid gold chiffon (last to go on, will hopefully tone in with the bodice whilst still showing the greens through underneath.










No pictures of the teal layer yet. Next time it should all be finished. Then I need to sit down and work out how I level the hems when it needs to have a jagged edge like the original inspiration photo.


I have discovered that I enjoy the chiffon; I am needing to use a different method for joining the panels, not the same way as the net, but it does look beautiful. Next on the list is a full chiffon tutu!

I have so many ideas that I want to realise, I am already dreaming up the next costume. Thinking peasant- maybe Coppelia inspired.

Sunday, 1 July 2012

New Ballet Romantic Tutu In Progress

Okay, so its been a while since my last post, but in my defence I have been very, very busy.

In my last post on ballet where I was finishing up the white classic romantic tutu I spoke briefly about what I wanted to do next- well I have already started because I wanted to carry on with all the new skills fresh in my mind.

I am also really pleased to say that I secure a first grading for the ballet 'self directed project' which reflected how hard i worked.

But onwards! This is the image of the ROH Sleeping Beauty Act 2 Wood nymphs from where I gained my inspiration:



And here is a link to a youtube clip of the same costumes in action:





I have already been fabric shopping locally, which means there was only a limited choice, but alas, London is expensive to get to from here. Still I came away with a cotton velvet and crepe back satin in a deep ivy green for the bodice and soft tulles in teal, cream with gold glitter and golden spun sugar. Also silky chiffons in apple green and caramel gold with a beautiful shot silk dupion in genn and gold for decoration.

Its a different colour pallette to the original but then I am only using the original as a starting point. To learn new skills I wanted to practise using the chiffon and I also like how the different layers work all together, giving different flashes of colour, especially as some of the layers of the skirt are cut shorter. I will get a photo of the fabrics soon to put up.


In the mean time I have mapped out the bodice, using different photos to guess at the shape and number of panels- I think I am close, but I cant be sure. Either way the bodice has come out a lovely shape with 6 panel per side and a modesty panel of skin tone powernet will be added across the front after the bodice is complete.


Now for some photos:




















The bodice is coming together really quickly- much quicker than the white tutu, and I am currently handsewing in the bones. once I have done this all I need to do is the piping and the back closures and I am ready to start the basque and the skirt layers. I am going to decorate towards the end and then put in the powernet at the front of the bodice- should have some more photos up soon.


I have also applied for woork experience at the Royal Opera House in the women's workroom, so fingers crossed for that.

Thursday, 7 June 2012

18th Century Caracco Jacket

This is a little project I have been wanting to get off the ground since last October. So I just got up and got on with the draping of the toile this morning. The historical plate is from Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 1 and it is the 1775 Caracco Jacket. I wanted to drape a Mantua as well but this little jacket ended up taking longer than expected as the two piece pattern was tricky to manipulate on the stand and I had to place it on the flat to extend out the skirts and pleats.

Below are the first photos of this process right up to the completed toile(pinned).
I have just made this to fit the mannequin without padding and I will now convert it to a paper pattern before making up in top fabric (as a sample so no further toile) and then hopefully find someone to fit and model it for me. I'm not sure on fabric choices at the moment as I have recently said I am not buying any more fabric over the Summer and must use up what is in 'the stash' thus saving money and clearing space. Its more about familiarising myself with the draping process and also construction/decoration then expensive silks. When I have clients who want to pay £50 a metre for their fabrics then I can enjoy the full luxury of such a garment, but until then the key word for this summer must be frugal.






First draping:






Laying on the flat to add skirts and pleats:






 Pinned back onto the mannequin before shortening the hem:








Finished toile:












The toile is not quite sitting right at the back as I have not put on a bum roll, I did add a bit of padding but once the correct underwear is in place then the jacket will sit correctly at the back.


So that is it for now, as mentioned the next step is to create a paper pattern from the calico toile and then choose some fabric.

Friday, 1 June 2012

Ballet (nearly) Blanc

So whilst I'm on a roll here are the rest of the shots of the completed Self Directed Project aka' learning to make the pretties'.

There are infact a few petals still pinned rather than sewn down to the costume, and once again, stuck with a camera/backdrop/ lack of decent lighting that does not show the costume off to its full potential.

Even so, I have taken quite a few shots from different angles as well as taking some snaps of my decoration and sleeve samples.
























Just a few photos!

I cant wait to get on and make up another bodice(draft a whole new pattern) and make some variations using different materials and shapes for the skirt.


My first challenge will be something like the wood nymph-y costumes seen here in a version of Sleeping Beauty. I just love them and any excuse to work in green.