Wednesday, 14 March 2012

Silver Silk Overbust Corset

I'm in the middle of making an overbust corset as an experimental portfolio piece and to familiarise myself with shaping and boning over the bust.

The material is just gorgeous, a mixture of 60% black silk dupion with 40% silver lurex. It has the feel of the future in a Jean Paul Gaultier- Fifth Element kind of way. I also have a deep pistachio green in the same style which is destined to be a fan laced cincher.

The silver has a strength layer of coutil which the silk has been flatlined to by tacking, fell seams and cotton cording in the hip gussets. I am lining it with some fun cotton print (pictures to come) and there will be external bone channels in the coutil covered with the silver.

Its frustrating me that i cant find as much time to dedicate to the making of it as i want, but my degree is in full flow and i have a little mouth to feed.

The pattern is from Robert Doyle's Waisted Efforts-

and is one of the small plates from the Symmington collection. It has taken two mock ups and a lot of adjustment to get this corset into a shape suitable for the modern wearer and to increase the bust height so that the breasts will sit fully inside the corset. I'm actually still not 100% sure of the shape but this is all part of learning your craft inside out.

Eventually, if I like this pattern enough and when it is tweaked to perfection I will be able to offer it to clients in a multitude of sizes bespoke to their body shape.

But for now here is a sneak peek construction photo..

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