I'm in the middle of making an overbust corset as an experimental portfolio piece and to familiarise myself with shaping and boning over the bust.
The material is just gorgeous, a mixture of 60% black silk dupion with 40% silver lurex. It has the feel of the future in a Jean Paul Gaultier- Fifth Element kind of way. I also have a deep pistachio green in the same style which is destined to be a fan laced cincher.
The silver has a strength layer of coutil which the silk has been flatlined to by tacking, fell seams and cotton cording in the hip gussets. I am lining it with some fun cotton print (pictures to come) and there will be external bone channels in the coutil covered with the silver.
Its frustrating me that i cant find as much time to dedicate to the making of it as i want, but my degree is in full flow and i have a little mouth to feed.
The pattern is from Robert Doyle's Waisted Efforts- http://www.amazon.co.uk/Waisted-efforts-illustrated-corset-making/dp/0968303900/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331725067&sr=8-1-spell
and is one of the small plates from the Symmington collection. It has taken two mock ups and a lot of adjustment to get this corset into a shape suitable for the modern wearer and to increase the bust height so that the breasts will sit fully inside the corset. I'm actually still not 100% sure of the shape but this is all part of learning your craft inside out.
Eventually, if I like this pattern enough and when it is tweaked to perfection I will be able to offer it to clients in a multitude of sizes bespoke to their body shape.